Electric fence wiring diagram
Connect energiser, earth, fence and gate correctly, with all distances.
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Electric Fencing Guide
From planning to troubleshooting: everything you need for a safe, reliable electric fence. With calculators, a wiring diagram to download and a glossary of all the key terms.
This is what a fence pulse looks like: about once per second, lasting only a fraction of a second.
Which fence for which animal?
Height, number of wires and required voltage at a glance.
Fence by animal →Calculate materials
Posts, wire, insulators and the right energiser strength.
Calculators →No power on the fence?
Find the cause in just a few clicks.
Troubleshooting →Wiring diagram
Connect energiser, earth, fence and gate correctly. As a PDF.
Downloads →How an electric fence works
An energiser sends a short pulse into the fence about once per second. When an animal touches the wire, the current flows through the animal into the ground and back to the energiser via the earth rods. The circuit is closed and the animal gets a noticeable but harmless shock.
That leads to the most important point for your fence: it only works as well as its earthing. If the ground is dry or the energiser has too few earth rods, the current can't get back and the shock is weak, even with a powerful energiser.
Earthing: the most common source of problems
- At least three earth rods, each about 1 m long and at least 3 m apart.
- Rule of thumb for stronger energisers: about 1 m of earth rod per joule of pulse energy.
- Choose damp spots, such as shade or a hollow. Dry sand and rock conduct poorly.
- Keep at least 10 m away from other earth systems such as house earthing, lightning protection or water pipes.
- Use galvanised rods and tight clamps. Rust at the connection weakens the whole fence.
Which fence for which animal?
These are guideline values for animals that are used to electric fencing. Young, inexperienced or particularly lively animals usually need one more wire. Always measure the voltage at the end of the fence, the point furthest from the energiser.
Cattle
- Fence height
- 90 to 100 cm
- Wires
- 1 to 2
- Voltage at fence end
- min. 3,000 V
Wire heights from ground: approx. 50 and 90 cm, add 30 cm for calves
Horses
- Fence height
- 120 to 140 cm
- Wires
- 3
- Voltage at fence end
- min. 3,000 V
Wire heights from ground: approx. 60, 90 and 120 cm
Ponies
- Fence height
- 100 to 120 cm
- Wires
- 3
- Voltage at fence end
- min. 3,000 V
Wire heights from ground: approx. 40, 70 and 100 cm
Sheep
- Fence height
- 90 to 105 cm
- Wires
- Netting or 4 to 5
- Voltage at fence end
- min. 4,000 V
Wire heights from ground: netting, or wires from approx. 20 cm up to 90 cm
Goats
- Fence height
- 105 to 120 cm
- Wires
- Netting or 5
- Voltage at fence end
- min. 4,000 V
Wire heights from ground: netting, or wires from approx. 20 cm up to 110 cm
Pigs
- Fence height
- approx. 45 to 50 cm
- Wires
- 2 to 3
- Voltage at fence end
- min. 2,500 V
Wire heights from ground: approx. 20 and 45 cm, add 10 cm for piglets
With outdoor and free-range pigs, the electric fence is only the inner fence. Because of African swine fever, many countries also require a solid outer fence, in Germany and Austria at least 1.50 m high. Check with your veterinary authority.
Poultry
- Fence height
- 106 to 112 cm
- Wires
- Netting
- Voltage at fence end
- min. 4,000 V
Wire heights from ground: electrifiable poultry netting
Wild boar deterrent
- Fence height
- 60 cm
- Wires
- 3
- Voltage at fence end
- min. 4,000 V
Wire heights from ground: approx. 20, 40 and 60 cm
Wolf, livestock protection
- Fence height
- min. 105 to 120 cm
- Wires
- Netting or 5
- Voltage at fence end
- min. 4,000 V
Wire heights from ground: approx. 20, 40, 60, 90 and 120 cm
For protecting livestock against wolves, your country often has its own requirements, especially if you apply for funding. Ask your local authority for the minimum heights and number of wires.
Calculators
Enter the size of your paddock to see roughly how much material you need and how powerful your energiser should be. The figures are guideline values for planning.
Material calculator
Vegetation on fence
Fence type
With this much conductor, rope or tape with low resistance is worth it, so that enough voltage reaches the end of the fence.
Battery runtime calculator
printed on the battery, e.g. 75 Ah
in the energiser's technical data, e.g. 60 mA
Your battery will last about50 daysAfter that you'll need to recharge it.
You'll find the consumption in milliamps in your energiser's technical data. The calculation uses 80 % of the battery capacity, as a battery should never be run completely flat. Cold weather shortens the runtime.
Installing an electric fence in 7 steps
Plan the route
Walk the line and mark corners, gates and narrow spots. Keep away from roads, power lines and trees whose branches could later fall onto the fence.
Set corner and end posts
They carry the full tension of the fence. Set them deep and firm, and brace them with a strut on permanent fences.
Line posts and insulators
Plastic posts about every 4 to 6 m on temporary fences, wooden posts about every 8 to 10 m on permanent fences. On wooden posts the insulator keeps the conductor away from the post.
Run and tension the conductor
Thread the conductor through the insulators and tighten it with a fence strainer. Join pieces with proper connectors rather than knots, as a knot conducts poorly and breaks easily.
Install gates
Use gate handles at the gate. To keep current flowing when the gate is open, run an underground cable in a conduit beneath the gateway.
Install the earth
Drive at least three earth rods 3 m apart into a damp spot and connect them. See the earthing section above for details.
Connect and measure
Connect the earth terminal first, then the fence terminal, and switch on the energiser. Measure the voltage at the end of the fence and put up warning signs. Let the animals get used to the fence in a small paddock.
Troubleshooting: what's wrong?
Select what you're seeing. For troubleshooting you need a fence tester to measure the voltage at different points.
The energiser shows no voltage at all
- Check the power source: battery flat, mains plug loose or solar panel in shade.
- Check the fuse or switch on the energiser.
- Test the energiser without the fence. If it stays silent, it needs servicing.
Good voltage at the energiser, weak on the fence
- Vegetation: grass and branches touching the conductor leak current into the ground. Clearing it helps immediately.
- Broken insulators or a conductor touching a post, wire or metal.
- Corroded or knotted joints. Use the fence tester section by section to find where the voltage drops.
Voltage is fine, but animals still break out
- Check the earth: short the fence about 100 m from the energiser and measure at the earth. More than about 200 V means you need more earth rods.
- On very dry ground, a plus-minus fence helps, with one wire acting as the earth.
- Wire heights don't suit the animal, or the animals aren't used to the fence yet.
Voltage drops sharply after rain or morning dew
- Almost always vegetation, which conducts better when wet. Keep the bottom wire clear or raise it.
- Damp insulators with cracks also leak current. Replace damaged insulators.
The fence crackles or sparks
- The current is jumping across at this point, usually at a broken insulator or a conductor almost touching something.
- The spark is easy to see at night, which helps you find the spot quickly.
Law & safety
The most common questions about safety, gardens and neighbours. Legal requirements vary by country and municipality, so if in doubt, ask locally.
Is an electric fence with 10,000 volts dangerous?
Not for healthy people and animals. A certified energiser emits a very short pulse about once per second, and the energy is strictly limited. The shock is unpleasant but harmless. It only becomes life-threatening if someone connects a fence directly to mains power without an energiser. That is prohibited.
Can I put up an electric fence in my garden?
Usually yes, as long as you use a certified energiser and the fence is clearly visible to others. Your local authority can tell you whether there are additional rules for your residential area.
How far from the property boundary does the fence need to be?
This is governed by neighbour law, which differs from country to country and often from region to region. It's best to ask your local authority. In any case, position the fence so that neighbours and passers-by can't touch it by accident.
Do I need warning signs?
Yes, as soon as the fence runs along public paths or roads. Then a warning sign belongs on the fence about every 100 m, plus one at every gate and crossing point.
Is a shock from an electric fence dangerous for my dog?
Not for a healthy dog. It gets a fright and avoids the fence afterwards. With puppies and small dogs, make sure they can't get caught in netting. An animal that is stuck would otherwise keep receiving pulses.
How much electricity does an electric fence use?
Very little. Mains energisers usually need only a few watts, which hardly shows on your electricity bill. With battery energisers, the consumption in milliamps decides how long a charge lasts. Work it out with the battery calculator above.
Can I connect two energisers to one fence?
No. One fence takes exactly one energiser. Two energisers on one conductor interfere with each other and together exceed the permitted pulse energy.
Electric fencing glossary from A to Z
Use the search or the letters to find even more terms.
- AGM battery
- A maintenance-free, leak-proof 12 V battery that suits energisers well. It copes with frequent charging and discharging better than a basic car battery.
- Amp hours (Ah)
- The capacity of a battery. A 75 Ah battery lasts much longer than a 45 Ah one.
- Battery energiser
- An energiser powered by a 9 V or 12 V battery. Ideal for paddocks without mains power, often combined with a solar panel.
- Conductor resistance
- Shows how well a conductor carries current, in ohms per metre. The lower the value, the more voltage reaches the end of the fence.
- Connector
- A clamp for joining two pieces of conductor or connecting the fence to the energiser. Conducts far better than a knot.
- Containment reliability
- How reliably a fence keeps animals in. It depends on voltage, wire height, visibility and how used to it the animals are.
- Containment voltage
- The minimum voltage the fence must carry for animals to respect it. It depends on the animal, see table.
- Copper and stainless steel conductors
- The metal strands in wire, rope and tape. Copper conducts especially well, stainless steel is especially durable.
- Corner insulator
- An especially strong insulator for corners and fence ends, where the conductor is tensioned.
- Deep discharge
- A battery is drained so far that it gets damaged. Recharge it in time or use a solar panel.
- Disposable battery
- A non-rechargeable battery for small energisers. Empty batteries belong at a collection point.
- Double spike
- A post with two ground spikes. It stands more firmly, especially with netting and in soft ground.
- Dual-power energiser
- An energiser that runs either on 230 V or on a 12 V battery. Handy when a paddock is used with and without mains power.
- Earth rod
- A galvanised metal rod that carries the current from the ground back to the energiser. At least three, each about 1 m long.
- Earth voltage
- The voltage you can measure at the earth when the fence is shorted. If it is above about 200 V, the earthing is too weak.
- EN 60335-2-76
- The European safety standard for energisers. Among other things, it limits pulse energy and covers warning signs.
- Energiser
- The heart of the fence. It converts power from mains, battery or solar into short high-voltage pulses.
- Fault finder
- A meter that shows the direction of a leak as well as the voltage. It helps you find faults on long fences faster.
- Fence netting
- Netting with built-in conductors and posts, quick to put up. Ideal for sheep, goats and poultry.
- Fence panel
- A sturdy metal panel that clips together into paddocks and pens. It is not electrified.
- Fence reel
- A reel with a crank for winding polywire or tape on and off. Makes moving temporary fences easier.
- Fence strainer
- Tensions the conductor and keeps it taut. A sagging conductor quickly touches the ground or vegetation.
- Fence tester
- A meter for measuring the voltage on the fence. Essential for narrowing down faults section by section.
- Fibreglass rod
- A light, flexible rod that doesn't conduct. Good for temporary fences, the conductors are attached with clips.
- Field gate
- A solid metal gate for gateways. It carries no current, so you route the current underneath with an underground cable.
- Gate handle
- An insulated handle with a spring or bungee that lets you open the fence at a gateway without getting a shock.
- Gate tape
- Elastic tape with a gate handle that closes a gateway and still carries current.
- Insulator
- Keeps the conductor away from the post so that current doesn't leak into the ground. There are ring, corner and gate insulators.
- Joule
- The unit of pulse energy. The longer the fence and the heavier the vegetation, the more joules the energiser needs.
- Lead-out cable
- Heavily insulated cable connecting energiser, fence and earth. Ordinary mains cable is not suitable.
- Leakage
- Current lost along the way because the conductor touches vegetation, a post or metal. Every leak lowers the voltage at the end of the fence.
- Lightning protection
- Protects the energiser from surges during thunderstorms. It is fitted between fence and earth and needs its own earthing.
- Livestock protection
- Fences that protect livestock from wolves and other predators. There are often specific rules on height and voltage.
- Mains energiser
- An energiser that plugs into a 230 V socket. Delivers high output continuously and suits long, permanent fences.
- Milliamps (mA)
- Shows how much current a battery energiser uses. The lower the figure, the longer the battery lasts.
- Offset insulator
- Holds the conductor at a distance from the post or an existing fence. Useful for electrifying a wooden or mesh fence.
- Otter fence
- A low electric fence or net around ponds that keeps otters out. The lower wires sit especially close to the ground.
- Plastic post
- A light, portable post with several loops for wire and tape. No extra insulator is needed.
- Plus-minus fence
- A fence where some wires are connected to earth. When an animal touches both wires, the circuit closes even on dry ground.
- Polyrope
- Round, sturdy conductor with low resistance. Very durable and suited to long fences and horse paddocks.
- Polytape
- Flat conductor, usually 20 to 40 mm wide. Highly visible and therefore popular for horses.
- Polywire
- Thin, round conductor made of plastic strands with metal wires woven in. Inexpensive and light, ideal for temporary fences.
- Post puller
- A tool for pulling posts out of the ground without much effort.
- Pulse energy
- The energy of a single pulse, stated in joules. It tells you more about an energiser's strength than the voltage figure.
- Pulse interval
- The gap between two pulses, about one second on energisers. This lets an animal let go of the wire at any time.
- Recycled plastic post
- A post made from recycled plastic that won't rot. As plastic doesn't conduct, you can usually attach the conductors directly.
- Ring insulator
- An insulator with a ring that screws into wooden posts. The conductor runs loosely through it.
- Short circuit
- The conductor touches earth or metal directly and the voltage almost collapses. A common cause is a wire on the ground or against a metal post.
- Soil conductivity
- How well the ground conducts current. Damp, rich soil conducts well, sand, rock and frozen ground poorly.
- Solar energiser
- An energiser with a built-in or connected solar panel that charges the battery during the day.
- Solar panel
- Recharges the energiser's battery during the day, so a battery lasts a very long time even on remote pastures.
- Spring steel post
- A thin, flexible steel post with an insulator on top. Quick to place and ideal for strip grazing.
- Stored energy
- The energy the energiser stores internally. What counts for the fence is the pulse energy, the amount that actually reaches the fence.
- T-post
- A sturdy metal post with a T-profile that is driven into the ground. You'll need matching T-post insulators for the conductors.
- Underground cable
- Heavily insulated cable that carries the current under a gate or path. Lay it in a protective conduit.
- Vegetation
- Grass, branches and weeds touching the conductor. The main reason for too little voltage, especially when wet.
- Volt
- Unit for the voltage on the fence. Depending on the animal, at least 2,500 to 4,000 V should reach the end of the fence.
- Warning sign
- Yellow sign indicating an electric fence. Required about every 100 m along public paths.
- Wooden post
- The classic for permanent fences. Wooden posts last a long time but need an insulator for every conductor.
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