Drinker Heating: Heating Cable and Transformers Against Frost

Drinker Heating: Frost Protection for the Whole System

Anyone standing in front of a dry drinker in winter almost never has a faulty bowl, but a frozen supply pipe. That is exactly what this category is for: frost protection cable with a thermostat, trace heating, transformers, heating plates and replacement heaters. The components can be retrofitted to existing drinkers, so you can put things right in autumn instead of standing at the pipe with a hot air gun in January. The effort is small and the benefit shows up in the first properly cold week.

Cable for the supply pipe

Frost protection cable comes in lengths from one metre to just under fifty. It is run lengthways along the pipe, fixed with spacers and covered with aluminium tape that reflects the heat back towards the pipe. The built-in thermostat only switches on just above zero, which keeps consumption low. For short spur lines to the drinker there are matching 24 volt heating cables rated at 15 or 30 watts.

Transformers and heating elements

Heated drinking bowls mostly run on extra-low voltage. The transformer you need for that comes in 100, 200, 300 and 400 VA, depending on how many bowls are connected. For poultry and small livestock drinkers there are flat heating plates at 15 or 22 watts that simply sit underneath. Older tip troughs can be put back into service with a replacement heater instead of renewing the whole unit. Check the voltage and wattage of the original part, otherwise the heater will fit mechanically but not electrically.

Frequently asked questions

How long does the heating cable need to be?
Measure the run of pipe that is not laid below the frost line and add roughly one metre for bends and connections.

Which transformer do I need?
Add up the wattage of all connected heating elements and pick the next size up, so the transformer is not permanently running at its limit.

Can I fit this myself?
Laying the cable and fitting the spacers, yes. The connection to the 230 volt mains should be left to a qualified electrician.